Overview of the journey route to Machu Picchu, Peru:
Original destination (UK) > Lima > Cusco > Ollantaytambo > Aguas Calientes > Machu Picchu.
Step 1: Arriving in Lima, Peru
There are no direct international flights into Cusco, therefore your travels will start and end in Lima for this route. Lima was one of my favourite destinations during my visit to Peru. You can easily spend 2 days here before flying to Cusco if you prefer. If you’d like to visit Huacachina, read my blog post here.
Transportation from Lima airport to Miraflores
Taxi Green: I arrived in Lima with no cash. Once you land in the airport, simply book a taxi with TaxiGreen (their stand is located inside the terminal on your way out). I paid 60 soles (£13) and I was able to pay using my debit card. Everything was straightforward, transparent and I felt safe at night. It was a 30-40 minute drive to Miraflores.
Quick Llama: Another good option is to use the QuickLlama shuttle service. I used this to travel back to the airport. It's a purple or white van, they communicate via WhatsApp and they arrive on-time. I booked my ticket via their website here.
Buying a sim card in Peru
I used a service called Claro which was excellent. I even had network coverage on top of Machu Picchu! Do NOT buy your sim card in the airport, it's way too expensive. I purchased my sim card on day 2 in a Claro store in Miraflores (near Starbucks). You'll need your passport to get a sim card in Peru. In the stores they will communicate the best data packages to buy. I purchased a 30 day, 4GB sim again for under £20.
Accommodation in Lima
Base yourself in Miraflores. I stayed at Larq'a Park Rooms.
Free walking tours
Go to the Miraflores Tourist Information Centre and book a free walking tour. They last about 2-3 hours and you can choose the Miraflores, Barranco or downtown tour running daily. I decided to take an Uber to Barranco since I missed the morning tour. The Uber cost £4.
Step 2: Flying to Cusco
I booked my flight to Cusco with Viva Air. Their planes are clean and punctual. The flight time is about 1hr 20 minutes and 1 N95 or 2 regular face masks are required whilst travelling due to covid.
Accommodation in Cusco
In Cusco I stayed in the Chapparo area. It's a 10 minute walk to the Plaza De Armas and pretty well located, right next to San Pedro Market.
Please note, most hotels in Cusco have no heating, poor insulation and no HOT running water, so pack lots of warm layers or request a space heater for your room. A little tip is to pack a hot water bottle which you can refill using hot water from the reception.
There are lots of excursions and things to do in or just outside of Cusco, but I'm not going to cover that here since it's extensively covered on other blogs.
Make sure you get acclimated in Cusco
Please take altitude sickness seriously and allow your body 2 days to get acclimated in Cusco before heading to Machu Picchu. I am physically fit, exercise 4 days a week and still became ill.
Avoid strenuous activities
Walk slowly
Eat light meals and foods with carbs
Drink cocoa leaf tea or chew the leaves
Rest
What does walking around Cusco feel like? It's the same feeling you get when you use a Stairmaster machine or treadmill and reach your maximum heart rate. The only difference is that you are walking, slowly at that! Avoid steep streets in Cusco if you can.
Step 3: Getting from Cusco to Machu Picchu
Don’t try to do Machu Picchu on the same day you leave Cusco. Give yourself a break and book your entry ticket for the following day. I booked a 10am ticket which was perfectly fine. I was well rested, got lots of great pictures and it wasn’t crowded.
A) To get to Machu Picchu from Cusco, take a taxi from Cusco to Ollantaytambo.
My hotel called a taxi on my behalf. It cost me $23 but you can pay in soles. The drive from Cusco to Ollantaytambo is 2 hours.
Please note, the descent from Cusco to Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes may cause your ears to temporarily get blocked because you are moving from a high to lower altitude. It doesn't help that taxi drivers drive at 60mph! If you have a sinus infection or cold, wear earplugs for the journey. I suffered the consequences of this, with one of my ears remaining blocked for 4 hours! (Yes, I was so miserable).
Can you take your luggage to Machu Picchu?
The Inca and Peru rails aren’t really built to accommodate suitcases. Therefore, you will have to leave your luggage at your hotel, paying extra for the dates you are away. You can find out if your hotel will store your luggage for free, otherwise just stay checked-in and pay for the extra nights you are not around.
I saw very very few suitcases. There was a luggage storage place near the Inca Rail, but I didn't see many people using it. So it’s best to leave your suitcase in your Cusco hotel and pack a medium sized overnight bag for Machu Picchu.
B) Arriving in Ollantaytambo
The taxi will drop you at the Inca Rail and Peru Rail station. It’s a beautiful small town and the station equipped with a lovely café, toilets, and beverages. It's a good opportunity to freshen up, grab a bite to eat, and charge your phone.
When you arrive, go and collect your tickets from the station desk. You will need to start boarding 20-30 minutes before departure, so allow yourself enough time to get to Ollantaytambo. There might be two queues, one with locals and another with a few international travellers. Simply head to the front of the queue and they will check your ticket, passport and let you straight through to the platform.
C) Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes
Once you board the Inca Rail, it’s a 1 hour 50 minute ride to the small town of Aguas Calientes. The journey is beautiful, so try and get a window seat if you can.
D) Arriving in Aguas Calientes
When you arrive in Aguas Calientes, you’ll exit through a short set of rocky steps. Alternatively, if you walk along the train track (in the same direction as the train arrived), you’ll see lots of bars, restaurants and a hotel. Keep walking down the train tracks and you will reach the bus station where you’ll eventually board your bus to Machu Picchu. This is the main square that will connect you to all the restaurants etc.
If you need to find the Inca and Peru Rail station terminal, it’s slightly hidden between a small market and the train tracks. The best way to explain it is that it's in the center of the two (train tracks and mini market). This is where you will go when you need to board your train back to Ollantaytambo. The easiest way to get to the terminal is to cut through the mini market.
Finding an ATM in Aguas Calientes
There are 3 cash machines in Aguas Calientes (that I’m aware of), so withdraw cash before you arrive if needed. There is a 24hr ATM machine available inside one of the hotels along the train tracks if urgent, although it’s a £4 withdrawal fee.
Step 4: Entering Machu Picchu
Book your Machu Picchu tickets here in advance.
On the morning of your visit to Machu Picchu, head to the bus terminal 40 minutes before your Machu Picchu entry time. My Machu Picchu entry time was at 10am, so I arrived at the bus station at 09:20am, allowing enough time to queue, purchase bus tickets and ride up the mountain.
Collect your bus tickets at the bus station. The cost is $24 for a bus up and down the mountain. Walking in the opposite direction to the parked green buses, you’ll find the bus station on a street corner on the left. You will need your passport to purchase tickets and clean, fresh looking dollar bill notes. If your money looks old or defaced, they won't accept it.
The bus journey up to Machu Picchu is 20 minutes. When ascending up the mountain, the bus drives slightly close to the edge, so if you’re afraid of heights, sit in an aisle seat.
When you arrive at the Machu Picchu entrance, simply have your printed entry ticket and passport ready, then YOU’RE IN! You’ll typically spend 3 hours exploring Machu Picchu. I visited without a tour guide and it was fine. If you want a tour guide, there are many near the bus station and Machu Picchu entrance, for a fee of $75.
If you want your passport stamped at Machu Picchu, many of the tour guides standing around will kindly stamp it for you for a small fee. They carry the stamps around in their bags.
What to pack for Machu Picchu: Your entry ticket, passport, sunscreen, water, an umbrella (just in case), sunglasses, layers (it get's hot), and bug spray. Also wear comfortable shoes. No tripods allowed!
Congratulations for making it all the way to Machu Picchu! Kudos to those that decided to trek the Inca Trail.
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